Match of the week

Olives and Côte Rôtie

Olives and Côte Rôtie

You’ll have to forgive me the vagueness of this week’s match of the week, which is actually more of a hack, but I’ve largely been desk-bound so it’s been slim pickings.

I could have written about how well tacos go with margaritas but I don’t think that comes as news to anyone.

But last night when I was at my music club (like a book club only we share music tracks) I was sipping a Côte Rôtie (one of the top wines from the Northern Rhône) that one generous member had brought along and distractedly nibbling a few olives and was struck by how delicious the olives made the wine taste. I mean it was good anyway but the olives made it seem even more sumptuous.

It’s not the first time I’ve had that insight but I’d forgotten about it. The reason is that the salinity of the olives accentuates the richness and fruit in the wine. It doesn’t in my view work with wines that are already soft and fruity but with the savoury, almost gamey Côte Rôtie it was transformative.

Not that there aren’t more interesting things to pair with Côte Rôtie (read this article for inspiration) but you might consider adding olives to a dish.

(Can’t tell you what the wine was, I’m afraid. As I say I was distracted by the music, taking time only to grab this somewhat blurry photo!)

See also The best food pairings for syrah

 

Calf's kidney and Côte Rôtie

Calf's kidney and Côte Rôtie

My match of the week for last week has to come from the sublime WIMPS lunch I had at the Ledbury which members can read about here. It was hard to decide which the best pairing was but I think the calf’s kidney and 1998 Gilles Barge Côte Rôtie just shaved it.

Interestingly that wasn’t the wine I liked the best out of the line-up of three that were served with the dish - that distinction went to the gorgeously supple, fragrant Jean Paul Jamet 1998 Côte Rôtie but the Barge was the one that worked best with the dish.

The kidney was cooked in smoked kidney fat with grilled onions, bacon and sweet sherry and served very rare. The umami taste of the onions and bacon certainly contributed to the match but the sherry, which added a note of sweetness to the dish, may have been the element that threw the Jamet slightly off course. (A drier sherry might possibly have preserved its character better).

The Barge, which had a slightly gamey, ‘animal’ quality flourished by contrast, becoming fruitier and more opulent. A match where the whole was more than the sum of its very considerable parts - quite some achievement.

Comté cheese and Languedoc Syrah

Comté cheese and Languedoc Syrah

We’ve been down in the Languedoc for the past week and two bottles - both Syrah - have impressed me for very different reasons. One was an inexpensive but characterful Ressac Vin de Pays d’Oc Syrah which we bought from the co-op at Florensac, Vinopolis, after eating at their showcase restaurant Bistrot d’Alex which I’ve mentioned on the site before. The other a much classier bottle called Clos du Fou (the 2004 vintage) from a local Faugères winemaker Château des Estanilles which bore comparison with a Côte Rôtie.

Both went extremely well with a chunk of Comté, an unpasteurised Gruyère-like cheese from the Jura we bought from the local supermarket (the lack of good cheese shops in this part of the world is really quite depressing.) I mention it not because the cheese was exceptional but because it didn’t detract from either of these wines - one relatively light, one complex and full-flavoured. A more mature Comté might have done them fewer favours (a Jura or Savoie white is the more usual pairing).

Clos du Fou is made in limited quantities and does not appear to be available from the main UK stockist The Wine Society though you do appear to be able to order it from 1855.com The current vintage is 2005 but it definitely repays keeping.

Image ©Awe inpiring images

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